Saturday, September 10, 2011

GREECE

 
The above link will take you to the pictures I posted on facebook of my trip to Greece, specifically Meteora.  I'll also post some others on the blog.  It was truly a marvelous trip, and a religious/educational/historical/cultural - and family visit - trip for me.
 
I left Cairo the morning of August 29th, and flew into Athens.  My cousin John Douzis, his sweet wife Konstantina, and their two-and-a-half year old daughter Maria Helen, were at the airport to meet me.  I had not seen John since his visit to the U.S. I think 7 years ago.  But he looks the same, and is still crazy, in a good way, of course. 
 
This is John and his buddy, Jimmy.
 
John is a policeman in Athens.  The first 2 days of my visit he took me on little driving tours throughout the city  We went to a traditional Greek Taverna and he insisted I eat so much food I thought I would bust.  Typical Greek "philoxenia" or love of foreigners.  I stayed in John's parents' apartment, had the whole place to myself because they had gone to Kalamata to fix their summer home up.  The apartment is the first floor of a three-story apartment building.  John and family live on the 2nd floor.  The third floor is being  made ready for John's brother.  Its all in the family.  He took me to the beach at Glyfada, to Piraeus, the port, a drive-by of the Acropolis, a drive-by of the US Embassy, and even to the apartment  where I used to live back in 1973.  Lots of changes in Athens since then.  It is much more spread out and bigger.  From certain vantage points you can see some of the Olympic structures.  There are no signs of the recent economic demonstrations which we all watched on the news.  But everyone is talking about economic misery in the streets and tavernas.  Instead of the typical greetings of "good morning, how are you, how's the family" I heard "good morning, what are we going to do?".  I heard that in more than one conversation.  The Greek seem to be very hard up, even worse than the U.S.  Despite the economic troubles, my cousin John gives money to anyone  who asks, street musicians, street vendors, beggars, the ever-present windshield washers, anyone.  When asked why, he said he did it out of love. 
 
My old apartment at Othos Methonis 65A,  Athens.  

The 3rdd day in Greece I went on a 5-hour bus ride to Central Greece.  I visited four monasteries there, perched high above the town of Kalambaka on top of outrageously high rock formations.  The monasteries were all built in the 1300's and 1400's of the last millenium.  I can't explain the feeling of peace and wonder I felt in this place.  God's beauty is everywhere.  Even if you are not religious, it is hard not to say little prayers as you walk through the tiny churches and think about the hundreds of martyrs who died to preserve and pass on their beliefs.  I am  so glad I am Greek Orthodox.  What an amazing tradition I have inherited.
 
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I did not know before coming to Meteora (the general name for the area) that the Greek people defended themselves in several battles in this area, two different wars.  One was the war for independence from the Turks of the Ottoman Empire, which ended in 1821.  The other was during World War II when the Greeks said OXI (or "NO") to the German/Italians who tried to over-run them , but failed, despit superior numbers.  The battles are depicted in many icons, especially in Grand Meteora, the biggest and highest of the monasteries.  I loved these icons, they absolutely glow with Greek nationalism and patriotism. Again, proud to be Greek!  I couldn't get pictures of the paintings but I got post-cards showing the "pallikaria" or young, brave soldiers who fought these battles.  I will try to figure out how to scan them so you can see. 
Holy Trinity Monastery

It was a truly wonderful trip - saw some amazing things, made new friends, and came away feeling much better and ready to face a new month in Cairo.  Next trip - Greek Islands! 

SAILING THE NILE

Last evening I had a wonderful sunset/moonrise ride on a felucca, a sailboat that has been sailing along the Nile for thousands of years.  Well, my specific felucca has not been around that long, but they've been using this type of boat since the days when Moses was a tiny baby in a basket.  It was truly beautiful and relaxing, and I definitely needed  to relax after the horrible week I had.  Four of us went out for a little picnic with wine, cheese, apples, bread, grapes - and a freshly made-from-scratch chocolate cake!  The boat had no motor so we were entirely dependent on  the very experienced and skillful pilot, dressed in his traditional djelebiya and turban.  The boat also had no light, so when the sun set, we were lighted only by the glow of Cairo on both banks.  One of our group was an experienced sailor, so I now know much more than I did before about sailing terms:  tacking, broad run, reach, starboard, port, stern, aft, etc. It was an education!  We even had a bit of a race with another felucca, with a family group aboard.  The two pilots talked a little friendly Arabic smack talk, and  the two groups of passengers waved and clicked pictures.

A great evening - I feel more prepared now to tackle the rest of the week.  I think a weekly felucca ride should be required for everyone.  I plan to do it as often as possible!