GREECE

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150295641064682.348368.619419681&l=afee6554f9&type=1

 

The above link will take you to the pictures I posted on facebook of my trip to Greece, specifically Meteora.  I'll also post some others on the blog.  It was truly a marvelous trip, and a religious/educational/historical/cultural - and family visit - trip for me.

 

I left Cairo the morning of August 29th, and flew into Athens.  My cousin John Douzis, his sweet wife Konstantina, and their two-and-a-half year old daughter Maria Helen, were at the airport to meet me.  I had not seen John since his visit to the U.S. I think 7 years ago.  But he looks the same, and is still crazy, in a good way, of course. 

 

This is John and his buddy, Jimmy.

 

John is a policeman in Athens.  The first 2 days of my visit he took me on little driving tours throughout the city  We went to a traditional Greek Taverna and he insisted I eat so much food I thought I would bust.  Typical Greek "philoxenia" or love of foreigners.  I stayed in John's parents' apartment, had the whole place to myself because they had gone to Kalamata to fix their summer home up.  The apartment is the first floor of a three-story apartment building.  John and family live on the 2nd floor.  The third floor is being  made ready for John's brother.  Its all in the family.  He took me to the beach at Glyfada, to Piraeus, the port, a drive-by of the Acropolis, a drive-by of the US Embassy, and even to the apartment  where I used to live back in 1973.  Lots of changes in Athens since then.  It is much more spread out and bigger.  From certain vantage points you can see some of the Olympic structures.  There are no signs of the recent economic demonstrations which we all watched on the news.  But everyone is talking about economic misery in the streets and tavernas.  Instead of the typical greetings of "good morning, how are you, how's the family" I heard "good morning, what are we going to do?".  I heard that in more than one conversation.  The Greek seem to be very hard up, even worse than the U.S.  Despite the economic troubles, my cousin John gives money to anyone  who asks, street musicians, street vendors, beggars, the ever-present windshield washers, anyone.  When asked why, he said he did it out of love. 

 

My old apartment at Othos Methonis 65A,  Athens.  

The 3rdd day in Greece I went on a 5-hour bus ride to Central Greece.  I visited four monasteries there, perched high above the town of Kalambaka on top of outrageously high rock formations.  The monasteries were all built in the 1300's and 1400's of the last millenium.  I can't explain the feeling of peace and wonder I felt in this place.  God's beauty is everywhere.  Even if you are not religious, it is hard not to say little prayers as you walk through the tiny churches and think about the hundreds of martyrs who died to preserve and pass on their beliefs.  I am  so glad I am Greek Orthodox.  What an amazing tradition I have inherited.

 

.     

 

I did not know before coming to Meteora (the general name for the area) that the Greek people defended themselves in several battles in this area, two different wars.  One was the war for independence from the Turks of the Ottoman Empire, which ended in 1821.  The other was during World War II when the Greeks said OXI (or "NO") to the German/Italians who tried to over-run them , but failed, despit superior numbers.  The battles are depicted in many icons, especially in Grand Meteora, the biggest and highest of the monasteries.  I loved these icons, they absolutely glow with Greek nationalism and patriotism. Again, proud to be Greek!  I couldn't get pictures of the paintings but I got post-cards showing the "pallikaria" or young, brave soldiers who fought these battles.  I will try to figure out how to scan them so you can see. 

Holy Trinity Monastery

It was a truly wonderful trip - saw some amazing things, made new friends, and came away feeling much better and ready to face a new month in Cairo.  Next trip - Greek Islands! 

SAILING THE NILE

Last evening I had a wonderful sunset/moonrise ride on a felucca, a sailboat that has been sailing along the Nile for thousands of years.  Well, my specific felucca has not been around that long, but they've been using this type of boat since the days when Moses was a tiny baby in a basket.  It was truly beautiful and relaxing, and I definitely needed  to relax after the horrible week I had.  Four of us went out for a little picnic with wine, cheese, apples, bread, grapes - and a freshly made-from-scratch chocolate cake!  The boat had no motor so we were entirely dependent on  the very experienced and skillful pilot, dressed in his traditional djelebiya and turban.  The boat also had no light, so when the sun set, we were lighted only by the glow of Cairo on both banks.  One of our group was an experienced sailor, so I now know much more than I did before about sailing terms:  tacking, broad run, reach, starboard, port, stern, aft, etc. It was an education!  We even had a bit of a race with another felucca, with a family group aboard.  The two pilots talked a little friendly Arabic smack talk, and  the two groups of passengers waved and clicked pictures.

A great evening - I feel more prepared now to tackle the rest of the week.  I think a weekly felucca ride should be required for everyone.  I plan to do it as often as possible!    

MAADI WILDLIFE

Ramadan is almost over, and Eid is almost here.  There still is quite a bit of confusion over exactly when Eid will take place.  We'll go to work Sunday and Monday, as usual - then monitor our radios and cell phones to find out if Eid (pronounced EED) will be TUESDAY-WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY or WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY-FRIDAY.  Regardless, the Embassy will only observe two days of it because the State Department caps our holidays.  We can only have a max of 20 per year, and taking 3 days for Eid would put us over the limit.  There are ten American holidays and ten Egyptian holidays.

When I said "we'll" go to work Sunday and Monday, as usual, I was speaking figuratively.  I'll go to work Sunday, but Monday morning bright and early I am off to Athens, then Meteora in the mountains of Greece, where the monasteries perch on cliffs and the air is hopefully cool and clean.  I'll be back Monday September 5.  This is a combination of annual leave, holidays - both Muslim and American, with Labor Day - and weekends.  So, 7 days off and away from the noisiness and crowds and cars and heat and most of all - SMOG!  Need to breathe some clean air and contemplate my navel while doing so.  What better place than a monastery in the mountains?!

I quit going to Iftar two weeks ago - I felt like I would bust from all the food.  Seriously, I made myself sick from overeating so I just turned down all the rest of the invitations.  I don't know how they do it, really, they must have iron constitutions. 

MAADI WILDLIFE:

1.  FLIES (Musca domestica):  When we leave our homes in the morning, it is a rule here that our 6 designated flies are waiting for our arrival in the Great Outdoors.  Every human has at least 6 personal flies, sometimes more.  Its the law.  As I walk to my shuttle stop about 7 blocks away, the flies must buzz around my head, occasionally landing on my face or arm.  They pay no attention whatsoever to hand-flappings, waving, flicking, or any other motions.  There is a contest amongst them to see who can remain longest on the spot on my chin that is their favorite.  I think the winner last week stayed 3 seconds.

2.  CATS (Felis catus):  Cairo and Maadi, and I suppose all of the other suburbs, are full of stray cats.  It sometimes seems they are more numerous than the flies.  Some have some pretty unusual markings:  I saw an all white cat with a black tail, and an almost all-black cat with an almost all-white tail.  A few times on the way to the shuttle I've heard the distinctive sounds of Kitties in Distress.  I think one was up in a tree and couldn't get down.  I would love to take in a kitten, but I still remember what our cat in Kinshasa did to an embassy-owned upholstered chair.

3.  DOGS (Cannis familiaris):  Strays run wild, singly and in packs of 4 or 5, in Maadi and all over Cairo.  I'd be afraid except that they seem intent on one thing only:  finding food.  All one has to do is reach down and pick up one of the plentiful rocks in the street.  The dogs all seem to know what that reaching down motion and the subsequent raising of the arm with a rock in it motion mean.  They scatter.  I only do it if I'm actually feeling menaced, which has only been once.  They do not seem sick or in any way diseased - they are perky and active and run around just like any regular domesticated dog.  Also, like any regular domesticated but badly behaved dog, they bark all night long.  Thinking of getting those noise-cancelling headphones.    

4:  ASSES (Equs asinus):  Cairo vendors continue to use donkeys to pull their carts full of fruit or veggies or water or whatever.  For the most part, I think the donkeys are okay, they do not seem to be abused or unhealthy.  And they are so cute!  I just love to see them when I'm out - they are beautiful!  One guy parked his cart and donkey outside my window when they were delivering my household effects.  As each box was unpacked, the movers threw the box out the window, the donky cart guy caught it and put it in his cart.  I heard the donkey braying at one point - it was cool.  Donkeys are my new favorite animal.    

5.  ANTS (Hymenopetrous formicidae):  Big brownish-red ones keep appearing randomly in my house.  Not just in the kitchen - also in the bathroom, bedroom, living room, etc.  They are not normal ants, which form a line which you can usually follow to the point of egress.  These ants appear one at a time and don't seem to have an agenda.  There is nothing worse than ants without an agenda.

That's it for today's post.  Next week we'll explore Egyptian flora.  Until then, ma'asalaama!   

Patriotic Post - Go State!

This is from the Huff Post of 8/27/2011, written by Thomas Nides, Deputy Secretary of State.  A lot of people wonder what I actually do.  As a Human Resources Manager, I'm part of the support system for those who work at American embassies around the world - currently for those working at the American Embassy in Cairo:  

Former Secretary of Defense Robert Gates used to say that the Department of Defense has as many people in military bands as the State Department has in the Foreign Service. With just over one percent of the entire federal budget, we have a huge impact on how Americans live and how the rest of the world experiences and engages America.

Here are a few examples of what we do on behalf of the American people:

1. We create American jobs. We directly support 20 million U.S. jobs by advocating on behalf of U.S. firms to open new markets, protect intellectual property, navigate foreign regulations and compete for foreign government and private contracts. State economic officers negotiate Open Skies agreements, which open new routes for air travel from the United States to countries throughout the world, creating thousands of American jobs and billions in U.S. economic activity each year.

2. We support American citizens abroad. In the past eight months, we provided emergency assistance to, or helped coordinate travel to safe locations for, American citizens in Japan, Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, Bahrain, and Cote d'Ivoire in the wake of natural disasters or civil unrest. Last year, we assisted in 11,000 international adoptions and worked on over 1,100 new child abduction cases - resulting in the return of 485 American children.

3. We promote democracy and foster stability around the world. Stable democracies and prosperous communities are less likely to pose a threat to their neighbors or to the United States. South Sudan, the world's newest nation, can be a viable ally for the United States in east Africa, but right now, violence and instability threatens its success. U.S. diplomats and development experts are there to help the South Sudanese learn how to govern and develop their economy so that South Sudan can stand on its own. In Libya, we helped create unprecedented international support to help the people shed 42 years of dictatorship and begin the long path to democracy.

4. We help to ensure the world is a safer place. Our nonproliferation programs have destroyed dangerous stockpiles of missiles, munitions and the material that can be used to make a nuclear weapon. The New START Treaty, negotiated by the State Department and signed by President Obama in 2010, reduced the number of deployed nuclear weapons to levels not seen since the 1950s. And, in 2010, the State Department helped more than 40 countries clear millions of square meters of landmines.

5. We save lives. Our programs that fight disease and hunger reduce the risk of instability abroad and, in return, protect our national security. Strong bipartisan support for U.S. global health investments has led to unparalleled successes in the treatment, care and prevention of HIV/AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria, as well as saved millions from diseases like smallpox and polio.

6. We help countries feed themselves. In the United States, we know agriculture. Building upon what we do best - grow and produce food - we help other countries plant the right seeds in the right way and get crops to markets to feed the most people. Food shortages can lead to riots and starvation, but strong agricultural sectors can lead to stable economies, helping countries become strong U.S. trading partners.

7. We help in times of crisis. After this year's earthquake and tsunami in Japan, State and USAID sent disaster response experts, nuclear experts and urban search and rescue teams to work assist the government of Japan with meeting immediate needs. Secretary Clinton personally delivered much needed supplies to Chile within hours of a devastating earthquake. From earthquakes in Haiti to famine in the Horn of Africa and devastating fires in Israel, our experienced and talented emergency professionals deliver assistance to those who need it most.

8. We promote the rule of law and protect human dignity. Every day, we help people find freedom and shape their own destinies. In the Central Asian republics, we advocated for the release of prisoners held simply because their beliefs differed from those of the government. In Vietnam, we prevented political activists from suffering physical abuse. We have trained lawyers in the Democratic Republic of the Congo to help rape victims, police officers in Peru to combat sex trafficking, and journalists in Malaysia in an effort to make their government more accountable.

9. We help Americans see the world. In 2010, we issued 14 million passports for Americans to travel abroad. We facilitate the lawful travel of students, tourists and business people, including issuing more than 700,000 visas for foreign students to study in the U.S. last year. And, if a storm could disrupt your vacation plans or if you could get sick from drinking the water, we alert you through our travel warnings.

10. We are the face of America overseas. Our diplomats, development experts, and the programs they implement are the source of American leadership around the world. They are the embodiments of our American values abroad. They are a force for good in the world.

The United States is a leader for peace, progress and prosperity, and the State Department and USAID help deliver that. All of this (and more) costs the American taxpayer about one percent of the overall federal budget. That is a small investment that yields a large return by advancing our national security, promoting our economic interests, and reaffirming our country's exceptional role in the world.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE FOOD

I've been to three Iftars so far, and beginning to feel like all I do is eat, eat, eat.  I think I've gained ten pounds since August 1.  And you know - it is IMPOSSIBLE to say no, stop, that's enough, thank you very much.  They act like they don't hear you!

Last night I was invited to my colleague, Nagwa's home for Iftar.  Nagwa's apartment is in Zemalik.  Absolutely gorgeous place, full of antiques, gilt mirrors, gorgeous carpets.  I met Nagwa's daughter, Noura, who is getting married soon and furnishing her own apartment.  Nagwa took Noura to New York to find a wedding dress.  This is an obviously wealthy family - Noura told us all the places her grandmother has taken her over the years:  Malaysia, Japan, San Diego, Europe, etc. etc.  Grandma herself was at the Iftar.  The family owns three floors of the building, with Nagwa's brother and his family on the floor above her, and the other brother and his family on the floor below.  The huge balcony is on the Nile.  The only thing I can't figure out is - why on earth is Nagwa working at the Embassy?! 

The table was literally covered end to end with huge platters of lamb, turkey, roast beef, stuffed cabbage leaves, stuffed zuchini, pastichio (my favorite!), etc.  I couldn't finish the first plate Nagwa loaded up for me, yet she kept adding to it and ignored my protests.  Fortunately, the meal was mostly meat and veggies, not that many carbs.  Nagwa and her mother both have diabetes too, which may be why they only had two carbolicious foods on the table.  I ended up taking a box of food home, it felt like there were rocks in it.  

Well, it was loads of fun, really - but I have got to start turning some of these invitations down.  I'm going to another Iftar this week.   Aaaak!! 

I shot this picture on my ride home from work in the shuttle - it is not an uncommon sight, unfortunately.  But they look like they're enjoying the ride!  To enlarge any of these pictures, click on them a couple of times. 

NEW FACES

There is definitely a party atmosphere in Cairo these days, but not during the day.  The party starts at sunset and continues until the wee hours.  Last night I was invited to a dinner at a friend's house.  She lives in Zimalek, which is actually an island in the middle of the Nile.  It is directly across the river from downtown Cairo.  It normally would take about 45 minutes to get there in normal 7 p.m. traffic.  It took 15 minutes, door-to-door.  Everyone was inside breaking their fast!  The meal that breaks the fast (I guess you could call it breakfast) is called IFTAR in Arabic.  Next week I'm going to an IFTAR at an Egyptian colleague's home. 

I am very impressed with the Egyptians' fasting culture.  As we drove through almost empty streets last night, there were many, many folks outside offering juice and water to motorists on the road - my driver stopped and got two little bags of orange juice.  I also saw several places where people were sitting outside and eating.  These impromptu iftars are open to the public - anyone can go and have a full meal.  The houses and stores are decorated with Ramadan lamps (they look like big Chinese lamps), colored lights, flags and banners.  In the evenings, people outside are happy, strolling, friendly, holding hands.  There is such a difference between Egypt Ramadan and Saudi Arabia Ramadan.

We have some important new faces at the Embassy, including a new Ambassador (whom I have yet to meet), a new management officer,  and a new management counselor.  In the management section, I find I am now considered an "old-timer" in terms of time at post - after only 4 months!  Other newcomers are starting to pour in,  keeping me and my staff hopping.  HR is the first place they come when checking in.

At the end of August we will have two days off for Eid, the holiday that celebrates, uhh,  the end of Ramadan.  Since it comes right before the Labor Day holiday, I am thinking of going to Greece for a really long 7-day weekend/holiday/leave combination.

I've posted a new album on FACEBOOK which I'll try to link here.  Otherwise not posting pictures to the blog today - maybe next time.  (It took about 2 hours to get pictures from my camera AND my blackberry to the FB album.  Here's the link:

https://www.facebook.com/#!/media/set/?set=a.10150264432939682.339659.619419681&type=1

 

Ramadan oh Ramadan

Thought I'd cut and paste this management notice that was sent out to all mission staff today.  It is FAQs about Ramadan, and how to act in Egypt if you are not fasting. 

SUBJECT:     Ramadan Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

As we enter this special time of the year for Muslims, here are some FAQ’s regarding the month of Ramadan.

When Does Ramadan Begin?  When Does It End?

This year the month of Ramadan begins on or about August 1^st and ends on or about August 29^th.  Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, begins with the sighting of the new moon by religious authorities, and ends with the sighting of the next new moon.  The sighting of the new moon will be announced over radio, television, and in the newspapers.  

What is the Significance of Ramadan?

Fasting during the month of Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam, and commemorates the month in which the first verses of the Holy Qur'an were revealed to the Prophet Mohammed by the angel Gabriel.  The other four pillars are the testimony of faith, prayer, "Zakat" or charitable support of the poor, and making the "Hajj" or pilgrimage to Mecca.  Ramadan is a time of worship and contemplation, and when the concerns of temporal existence recede.

What is the point of Fasting?

The reason Muslims fast is to discipline their body and mind, and to regain control of earthly desires.  The absence of food and drink and other pleasures provides an opportunity to concentrate on prayer and worship.   Muslims use this month to start afresh and give their life a new direction.  During Ramadan, Muslims may not eat, drink, or smoke between dawn and sunset.  At sunset, the fast is broken with a meal (Iftar), which may be as simple as water, and dates, or something more sumptuous, depending on culture and tradition.  Visiting with family and friends may subsequently go on into the late evening or early morning hours.

What is Iftar?  What is Suhoor?

Special meals are eaten before and after each day of fasting: suhoor, before the dawn prayers, and iftar, the evening meal, often eaten communally and often including dates.  Iftar is the meal that breaks the fast and may include any type of food.  In Egypt, the Iftar dessert almost always includes the "konafa," a cake-like dessert made of wheat, sugar, honey, raisins and different types of nuts, or "qatayef," a small syrup-soaked crepe, folded to include nuts and raisins.  Suhoor consists of a lighter meal like cheese, yogurt, and "fuul" (Egyptian dish of beans).

Are Working Hours/Business Hours Affected by Ramadan?

Yes.  During Ramadan, government offices and private sector companies work a reduced schedule.  Most commercial shops and stores may open late and stay open longer in the evening, but may be closed during the breaking of the fast at sunset.

What Happens at the End of the Month of Ramadan?

The ending of the fast is celebrated for three days in a holiday called Eid-al-Fitr (the Feast of Fast-Breaking). Eid-al-Fitr falls on the first day of the Shawwal, the month which follows Ramadan in the Islamic calendar.  It is a time to give in a charity to those in need.  Parents give their children gifts (money and new clothes), and friends and family celebrate the completion of a month of blessing and joy.

What Else Do I Need To Know About Ramadan?

Because of the rigors of fasting, and because of the late hours many fasters keep during Ramadan, non-Muslims should be sensitive to the unique customs of our Muslim colleagues and friends.  Patience and common sense should be exercised.  Please consider the following during Ramadan:

o   Refrain from public displays of eating, drinking, or smoking during the fast.  This includes eating and drinking in the office, official vehicles, or in taxis.

o   If you host receptions or other events at your residence during the time of Iftar (around sunset) it is appropriate to hold an Iftar of fast-breaking.  Fruit juice, dates, and hot soup are a traditional start to an Iftar meal in Egypt.  This is followed by an ordinary meal.  If you invite an Egyptian to your home during the Iftar, the meal should be served immediately after sunset, and no alcohol should be served.

o   Be especially careful when driving, particularly during the hours preceding Iftar (traffic is heaviest from 3-6 pm), when many will be heading home to break the fast.  During the Iftar, when everyone is at home eating, the streets will be empty.  At the conclusion of Iftar, normal outdoor activity resumes and life on the street returns to its normal.

In order to access information about the approximate sunset time in Cairo during the month of August, please follow the links below, and note: only use the sunset times: 

http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/astronomy.html?n=53&month=8&year=2011&obj=sun&afl=-12&day=1

For Alexandria, sunset is approximately six minutes later than in Cairo.

“Ramadan Kareem”