NOTE TO SELF - BLOG MORE

I need to blog about the following::


Crete during Eid
Egyptian demonstrations/elections
Hennah Party/wedding


Okay, wrote it down, now DO IT!

WHY I AM GRATEFUL FOR HANY, MY DRIVER

CONTEXT:  Planning to go to a Thanksgiving dinner at night in Zemalik, which is an hour away (in heavy traffic) across the river from Tahrir Square.  Worried about my return home, since the bridge going over the river to get home has been the site of some of the demonstrations and violence.  Considering staying overnight in Zemalik and coming home Friday morning.

ME: Hany, do you think I'll be in danger if I try to come home tonight?  Maybe I should stay over in Zemalik, what do you think?

HANY:  Ms Christine, you will not be in danger, because you will be with me.

I think I'm in love!  Too bad Hany is married, has 3 little kids, and is 25 years younger than me....

Hope everyone had a HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Back From America

Dear Diary:  Sorry I haven't written for so long.  According to the list of entries, I only managed two entries in September and NONE in October - yet. 

That's mostly because I was on vacation for most of October, just returned last night.  I went back to America for three weeks.  I had the BEST.  VACATION.  EVER!  Truly, it was a wonderful trip and I can't wait to do it again.

Here's the link to the pics I posted on facebook from my vacation.  

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150356920684682.360667.619419681&type=1&l=c43b0de6b2 

AND HERE:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150356941049682.360681.619419681&type=1&l=cddaefb4e8

My, my - where do I begin?  I left October 7th, right at the start of an Egyptian baggage handlers strike at the airport.  The rumor was that baggage handlers had been promised a raise, and that promise was broken because other groups so bitterly complained that they had received no raise.  But the day I left, I was told all flights to Europe were going, albeit somewhat delayed.  My transfer was in London so I hoped against hope that my flight would actually leave.  The scene at the airport was a chaos, total and utter.  No announcements were being made, and crowds were starting to push and shove up against the entry to the gates.  I was horrified - crowds are not my thing.  Angry, shoving, yelling crowds are REALLY not my thing.  But I wanted to get on the flight, so I waded in.  

The worst part was that there were no announcements or news coming from anywhere, and the board showed some flights delayed or cancelled, then seconds later the same flights just delayed, then again cancelled, then "on time".  Clearly it was not a viable source of info.  I saw a strikingly tall and lovely lady trying to get info.  I asked her what was going on and she could not really help me, but because she spoke Arabic she kept asking different people in the crowd, and relaying to me what they were saying (in perfect English).  Finally she said "yes, the flight to London is going" and she somehow magically opened a little path in the crowd, so we were able to go into the check-in area.  We talked a bit, she is a pharmacist in Dublin but wants to return to Egypt which is her home country.  She makes handmade soaps as a side-line, and would like to come back and start a business doing that and making other creams and soaps.  I thanked her again and again for helping me get through that crowd, and we exchanged e-mail addresses.  She was a lovely person, and I plan to pursue the acquaintance even though she lives in Ieland.  

Well if I go into this level of detail for the whole trip, this will be the longest (and most boring) blog ever, so I'll skip to the good stuff.  Mom is wonderful, of course.  We went to see Connie's new apartment at the Watermark.  It is really, really lovely.  We are all thrilled that she is there, and will now be able to get the care she has been putting off getting all these years.  She is anxious about her house selling, but I am keeping good thoughts on that.  Linda and I had dinner, and that was of course loads of fun, as always.  Linda looks great, I don't know why she has no gray hair (we are the same age!) but to me she looks like she always did, youthful and slim and red-headed.  Its disgusting, really.

On the 12th, Mom and I rented a car and started out to Charlottesville for an overnight at my big bro John's house.  The ride from Philly to C'ville should take about 5 hours.  In our case, it took almost 10!!!  It was the Ride from Hell.  1) We had a flat; 2) we had to switch rental cars; 3) we had to drive about 1/2 hour in thunderous rain, with zero visibility; 4) we got stuck in a two (2) hour back-up on I-95, right past Wilmington.  I actually have more, but suffice it to say we arrived in C'ville very late and exhausted.  Next morning we had breakfast with almost all of my fab nieces and nephews and great nephews and all significant others, and even one great nephew still in utero (Christina and Ben are 5-1/2 months pregnant!).

  Christina, Ben, and baby  

From C'ville we drove 4 hours in absolutely gorgeous weather to Chapel Hill, NC.  Gabe and Amanda and their three kids are there, as is Matthew.  Emily joined us that night, and we all had such a marvelous time with the family.  I'm not even sure exactly what we did, but I love just hanging out with my grandkids and kids and Mom.  This was a rare reunion of all 3 of my kids in the same place as me at the same time.  I was so happy, and the time went too quickly.

Drove back to C'ville for an overnight with John and Maria where we were inducted into the  mysteries of Milles Bournes, a French traffic game.  That's not a very good description for a very fun game, but that's what it is, a card game which uses French traffic signs and signals.  Wierd I know, but lots of fun.  I plan to get it and and introduce it in Cairo.  I will start a new trend of Milles Bournes parties!  We had a great time of course, and left the next morning back to Philly.  On the way back we stopped and had lunch with Emily at my 2nd favorite Indian restaurant in Silver Spring, the Bombay.  Yummy.

Midway through our time in Chapel Hill, we got a call that my beloved Aunt Dora had somehow collapsed and ended up in the hospital and now she is in a sort of rehabilitation center/senior citizens facility because she has to re-learn to walk.  Poor Aunt Dora!  I went to see her and she seems fine and comfortable (she is at Dunwoody in Newtown Square) and is in no pain.  She has not lost her sense of humor, so important!  When asked what she was learning in the occupational therapy class, she thought a moment, then said, "I'm learning to do my job."  She is a hoot, even at the worst of times, and can always make me and everyone else around her laugh.

Aunt Dora and Mom

Well that is all my news about the trip, it was SUPERB.  I arrived back to Cairo last night after an uneventful trip.  Back to work  tomorrow, I don't even like to think about it.  The good news is that the "long" EID (Muslim Holiday) starts November 7th so I'll be able to get some time off then.

GREECE

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150295641064682.348368.619419681&l=afee6554f9&type=1

 

The above link will take you to the pictures I posted on facebook of my trip to Greece, specifically Meteora.  I'll also post some others on the blog.  It was truly a marvelous trip, and a religious/educational/historical/cultural - and family visit - trip for me.

 

I left Cairo the morning of August 29th, and flew into Athens.  My cousin John Douzis, his sweet wife Konstantina, and their two-and-a-half year old daughter Maria Helen, were at the airport to meet me.  I had not seen John since his visit to the U.S. I think 7 years ago.  But he looks the same, and is still crazy, in a good way, of course. 

 

This is John and his buddy, Jimmy.

 

John is a policeman in Athens.  The first 2 days of my visit he took me on little driving tours throughout the city  We went to a traditional Greek Taverna and he insisted I eat so much food I thought I would bust.  Typical Greek "philoxenia" or love of foreigners.  I stayed in John's parents' apartment, had the whole place to myself because they had gone to Kalamata to fix their summer home up.  The apartment is the first floor of a three-story apartment building.  John and family live on the 2nd floor.  The third floor is being  made ready for John's brother.  Its all in the family.  He took me to the beach at Glyfada, to Piraeus, the port, a drive-by of the Acropolis, a drive-by of the US Embassy, and even to the apartment  where I used to live back in 1973.  Lots of changes in Athens since then.  It is much more spread out and bigger.  From certain vantage points you can see some of the Olympic structures.  There are no signs of the recent economic demonstrations which we all watched on the news.  But everyone is talking about economic misery in the streets and tavernas.  Instead of the typical greetings of "good morning, how are you, how's the family" I heard "good morning, what are we going to do?".  I heard that in more than one conversation.  The Greek seem to be very hard up, even worse than the U.S.  Despite the economic troubles, my cousin John gives money to anyone  who asks, street musicians, street vendors, beggars, the ever-present windshield washers, anyone.  When asked why, he said he did it out of love. 

 

My old apartment at Othos Methonis 65A,  Athens.  

The 3rdd day in Greece I went on a 5-hour bus ride to Central Greece.  I visited four monasteries there, perched high above the town of Kalambaka on top of outrageously high rock formations.  The monasteries were all built in the 1300's and 1400's of the last millenium.  I can't explain the feeling of peace and wonder I felt in this place.  God's beauty is everywhere.  Even if you are not religious, it is hard not to say little prayers as you walk through the tiny churches and think about the hundreds of martyrs who died to preserve and pass on their beliefs.  I am  so glad I am Greek Orthodox.  What an amazing tradition I have inherited.

 

.     

 

I did not know before coming to Meteora (the general name for the area) that the Greek people defended themselves in several battles in this area, two different wars.  One was the war for independence from the Turks of the Ottoman Empire, which ended in 1821.  The other was during World War II when the Greeks said OXI (or "NO") to the German/Italians who tried to over-run them , but failed, despit superior numbers.  The battles are depicted in many icons, especially in Grand Meteora, the biggest and highest of the monasteries.  I loved these icons, they absolutely glow with Greek nationalism and patriotism. Again, proud to be Greek!  I couldn't get pictures of the paintings but I got post-cards showing the "pallikaria" or young, brave soldiers who fought these battles.  I will try to figure out how to scan them so you can see. 

Holy Trinity Monastery

It was a truly wonderful trip - saw some amazing things, made new friends, and came away feeling much better and ready to face a new month in Cairo.  Next trip - Greek Islands! 

SAILING THE NILE

Last evening I had a wonderful sunset/moonrise ride on a felucca, a sailboat that has been sailing along the Nile for thousands of years.  Well, my specific felucca has not been around that long, but they've been using this type of boat since the days when Moses was a tiny baby in a basket.  It was truly beautiful and relaxing, and I definitely needed  to relax after the horrible week I had.  Four of us went out for a little picnic with wine, cheese, apples, bread, grapes - and a freshly made-from-scratch chocolate cake!  The boat had no motor so we were entirely dependent on  the very experienced and skillful pilot, dressed in his traditional djelebiya and turban.  The boat also had no light, so when the sun set, we were lighted only by the glow of Cairo on both banks.  One of our group was an experienced sailor, so I now know much more than I did before about sailing terms:  tacking, broad run, reach, starboard, port, stern, aft, etc. It was an education!  We even had a bit of a race with another felucca, with a family group aboard.  The two pilots talked a little friendly Arabic smack talk, and  the two groups of passengers waved and clicked pictures.

A great evening - I feel more prepared now to tackle the rest of the week.  I think a weekly felucca ride should be required for everyone.  I plan to do it as often as possible!    

MAADI WILDLIFE

Ramadan is almost over, and Eid is almost here.  There still is quite a bit of confusion over exactly when Eid will take place.  We'll go to work Sunday and Monday, as usual - then monitor our radios and cell phones to find out if Eid (pronounced EED) will be TUESDAY-WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY or WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY-FRIDAY.  Regardless, the Embassy will only observe two days of it because the State Department caps our holidays.  We can only have a max of 20 per year, and taking 3 days for Eid would put us over the limit.  There are ten American holidays and ten Egyptian holidays.

When I said "we'll" go to work Sunday and Monday, as usual, I was speaking figuratively.  I'll go to work Sunday, but Monday morning bright and early I am off to Athens, then Meteora in the mountains of Greece, where the monasteries perch on cliffs and the air is hopefully cool and clean.  I'll be back Monday September 5.  This is a combination of annual leave, holidays - both Muslim and American, with Labor Day - and weekends.  So, 7 days off and away from the noisiness and crowds and cars and heat and most of all - SMOG!  Need to breathe some clean air and contemplate my navel while doing so.  What better place than a monastery in the mountains?!

I quit going to Iftar two weeks ago - I felt like I would bust from all the food.  Seriously, I made myself sick from overeating so I just turned down all the rest of the invitations.  I don't know how they do it, really, they must have iron constitutions. 

MAADI WILDLIFE:

1.  FLIES (Musca domestica):  When we leave our homes in the morning, it is a rule here that our 6 designated flies are waiting for our arrival in the Great Outdoors.  Every human has at least 6 personal flies, sometimes more.  Its the law.  As I walk to my shuttle stop about 7 blocks away, the flies must buzz around my head, occasionally landing on my face or arm.  They pay no attention whatsoever to hand-flappings, waving, flicking, or any other motions.  There is a contest amongst them to see who can remain longest on the spot on my chin that is their favorite.  I think the winner last week stayed 3 seconds.

2.  CATS (Felis catus):  Cairo and Maadi, and I suppose all of the other suburbs, are full of stray cats.  It sometimes seems they are more numerous than the flies.  Some have some pretty unusual markings:  I saw an all white cat with a black tail, and an almost all-black cat with an almost all-white tail.  A few times on the way to the shuttle I've heard the distinctive sounds of Kitties in Distress.  I think one was up in a tree and couldn't get down.  I would love to take in a kitten, but I still remember what our cat in Kinshasa did to an embassy-owned upholstered chair.

3.  DOGS (Cannis familiaris):  Strays run wild, singly and in packs of 4 or 5, in Maadi and all over Cairo.  I'd be afraid except that they seem intent on one thing only:  finding food.  All one has to do is reach down and pick up one of the plentiful rocks in the street.  The dogs all seem to know what that reaching down motion and the subsequent raising of the arm with a rock in it motion mean.  They scatter.  I only do it if I'm actually feeling menaced, which has only been once.  They do not seem sick or in any way diseased - they are perky and active and run around just like any regular domesticated dog.  Also, like any regular domesticated but badly behaved dog, they bark all night long.  Thinking of getting those noise-cancelling headphones.    

4:  ASSES (Equs asinus):  Cairo vendors continue to use donkeys to pull their carts full of fruit or veggies or water or whatever.  For the most part, I think the donkeys are okay, they do not seem to be abused or unhealthy.  And they are so cute!  I just love to see them when I'm out - they are beautiful!  One guy parked his cart and donkey outside my window when they were delivering my household effects.  As each box was unpacked, the movers threw the box out the window, the donky cart guy caught it and put it in his cart.  I heard the donkey braying at one point - it was cool.  Donkeys are my new favorite animal.    

5.  ANTS (Hymenopetrous formicidae):  Big brownish-red ones keep appearing randomly in my house.  Not just in the kitchen - also in the bathroom, bedroom, living room, etc.  They are not normal ants, which form a line which you can usually follow to the point of egress.  These ants appear one at a time and don't seem to have an agenda.  There is nothing worse than ants without an agenda.

That's it for today's post.  Next week we'll explore Egyptian flora.  Until then, ma'asalaama!   

Patriotic Post - Go State!

This is from the Huff Post of 8/27/2011, written by Thomas Nides, Deputy Secretary of State.  A lot of people wonder what I actually do.  As a Human Resources Manager, I'm part of the support system for those who work at American embassies around the world - currently for those working at the American Embassy in Cairo:  

Former Secretary of Defense Robert Gates used to say that the Department of Defense has as many people in military bands as the State Department has in the Foreign Service. With just over one percent of the entire federal budget, we have a huge impact on how Americans live and how the rest of the world experiences and engages America.

Here are a few examples of what we do on behalf of the American people:

1. We create American jobs. We directly support 20 million U.S. jobs by advocating on behalf of U.S. firms to open new markets, protect intellectual property, navigate foreign regulations and compete for foreign government and private contracts. State economic officers negotiate Open Skies agreements, which open new routes for air travel from the United States to countries throughout the world, creating thousands of American jobs and billions in U.S. economic activity each year.

2. We support American citizens abroad. In the past eight months, we provided emergency assistance to, or helped coordinate travel to safe locations for, American citizens in Japan, Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, Bahrain, and Cote d'Ivoire in the wake of natural disasters or civil unrest. Last year, we assisted in 11,000 international adoptions and worked on over 1,100 new child abduction cases - resulting in the return of 485 American children.

3. We promote democracy and foster stability around the world. Stable democracies and prosperous communities are less likely to pose a threat to their neighbors or to the United States. South Sudan, the world's newest nation, can be a viable ally for the United States in east Africa, but right now, violence and instability threatens its success. U.S. diplomats and development experts are there to help the South Sudanese learn how to govern and develop their economy so that South Sudan can stand on its own. In Libya, we helped create unprecedented international support to help the people shed 42 years of dictatorship and begin the long path to democracy.

4. We help to ensure the world is a safer place. Our nonproliferation programs have destroyed dangerous stockpiles of missiles, munitions and the material that can be used to make a nuclear weapon. The New START Treaty, negotiated by the State Department and signed by President Obama in 2010, reduced the number of deployed nuclear weapons to levels not seen since the 1950s. And, in 2010, the State Department helped more than 40 countries clear millions of square meters of landmines.

5. We save lives. Our programs that fight disease and hunger reduce the risk of instability abroad and, in return, protect our national security. Strong bipartisan support for U.S. global health investments has led to unparalleled successes in the treatment, care and prevention of HIV/AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria, as well as saved millions from diseases like smallpox and polio.

6. We help countries feed themselves. In the United States, we know agriculture. Building upon what we do best - grow and produce food - we help other countries plant the right seeds in the right way and get crops to markets to feed the most people. Food shortages can lead to riots and starvation, but strong agricultural sectors can lead to stable economies, helping countries become strong U.S. trading partners.

7. We help in times of crisis. After this year's earthquake and tsunami in Japan, State and USAID sent disaster response experts, nuclear experts and urban search and rescue teams to work assist the government of Japan with meeting immediate needs. Secretary Clinton personally delivered much needed supplies to Chile within hours of a devastating earthquake. From earthquakes in Haiti to famine in the Horn of Africa and devastating fires in Israel, our experienced and talented emergency professionals deliver assistance to those who need it most.

8. We promote the rule of law and protect human dignity. Every day, we help people find freedom and shape their own destinies. In the Central Asian republics, we advocated for the release of prisoners held simply because their beliefs differed from those of the government. In Vietnam, we prevented political activists from suffering physical abuse. We have trained lawyers in the Democratic Republic of the Congo to help rape victims, police officers in Peru to combat sex trafficking, and journalists in Malaysia in an effort to make their government more accountable.

9. We help Americans see the world. In 2010, we issued 14 million passports for Americans to travel abroad. We facilitate the lawful travel of students, tourists and business people, including issuing more than 700,000 visas for foreign students to study in the U.S. last year. And, if a storm could disrupt your vacation plans or if you could get sick from drinking the water, we alert you through our travel warnings.

10. We are the face of America overseas. Our diplomats, development experts, and the programs they implement are the source of American leadership around the world. They are the embodiments of our American values abroad. They are a force for good in the world.

The United States is a leader for peace, progress and prosperity, and the State Department and USAID help deliver that. All of this (and more) costs the American taxpayer about one percent of the overall federal budget. That is a small investment that yields a large return by advancing our national security, promoting our economic interests, and reaffirming our country's exceptional role in the world.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE FOOD

I've been to three Iftars so far, and beginning to feel like all I do is eat, eat, eat.  I think I've gained ten pounds since August 1.  And you know - it is IMPOSSIBLE to say no, stop, that's enough, thank you very much.  They act like they don't hear you!

Last night I was invited to my colleague, Nagwa's home for Iftar.  Nagwa's apartment is in Zemalik.  Absolutely gorgeous place, full of antiques, gilt mirrors, gorgeous carpets.  I met Nagwa's daughter, Noura, who is getting married soon and furnishing her own apartment.  Nagwa took Noura to New York to find a wedding dress.  This is an obviously wealthy family - Noura told us all the places her grandmother has taken her over the years:  Malaysia, Japan, San Diego, Europe, etc. etc.  Grandma herself was at the Iftar.  The family owns three floors of the building, with Nagwa's brother and his family on the floor above her, and the other brother and his family on the floor below.  The huge balcony is on the Nile.  The only thing I can't figure out is - why on earth is Nagwa working at the Embassy?! 

The table was literally covered end to end with huge platters of lamb, turkey, roast beef, stuffed cabbage leaves, stuffed zuchini, pastichio (my favorite!), etc.  I couldn't finish the first plate Nagwa loaded up for me, yet she kept adding to it and ignored my protests.  Fortunately, the meal was mostly meat and veggies, not that many carbs.  Nagwa and her mother both have diabetes too, which may be why they only had two carbolicious foods on the table.  I ended up taking a box of food home, it felt like there were rocks in it.  

Well, it was loads of fun, really - but I have got to start turning some of these invitations down.  I'm going to another Iftar this week.   Aaaak!! 

I shot this picture on my ride home from work in the shuttle - it is not an uncommon sight, unfortunately.  But they look like they're enjoying the ride!  To enlarge any of these pictures, click on them a couple of times. 

NEW FACES

There is definitely a party atmosphere in Cairo these days, but not during the day.  The party starts at sunset and continues until the wee hours.  Last night I was invited to a dinner at a friend's house.  She lives in Zimalek, which is actually an island in the middle of the Nile.  It is directly across the river from downtown Cairo.  It normally would take about 45 minutes to get there in normal 7 p.m. traffic.  It took 15 minutes, door-to-door.  Everyone was inside breaking their fast!  The meal that breaks the fast (I guess you could call it breakfast) is called IFTAR in Arabic.  Next week I'm going to an IFTAR at an Egyptian colleague's home. 

I am very impressed with the Egyptians' fasting culture.  As we drove through almost empty streets last night, there were many, many folks outside offering juice and water to motorists on the road - my driver stopped and got two little bags of orange juice.  I also saw several places where people were sitting outside and eating.  These impromptu iftars are open to the public - anyone can go and have a full meal.  The houses and stores are decorated with Ramadan lamps (they look like big Chinese lamps), colored lights, flags and banners.  In the evenings, people outside are happy, strolling, friendly, holding hands.  There is such a difference between Egypt Ramadan and Saudi Arabia Ramadan.

We have some important new faces at the Embassy, including a new Ambassador (whom I have yet to meet), a new management officer,  and a new management counselor.  In the management section, I find I am now considered an "old-timer" in terms of time at post - after only 4 months!  Other newcomers are starting to pour in,  keeping me and my staff hopping.  HR is the first place they come when checking in.

At the end of August we will have two days off for Eid, the holiday that celebrates, uhh,  the end of Ramadan.  Since it comes right before the Labor Day holiday, I am thinking of going to Greece for a really long 7-day weekend/holiday/leave combination.

I've posted a new album on FACEBOOK which I'll try to link here.  Otherwise not posting pictures to the blog today - maybe next time.  (It took about 2 hours to get pictures from my camera AND my blackberry to the FB album.  Here's the link:

https://www.facebook.com/#!/media/set/?set=a.10150264432939682.339659.619419681&type=1

 

Ramadan oh Ramadan

Thought I'd cut and paste this management notice that was sent out to all mission staff today.  It is FAQs about Ramadan, and how to act in Egypt if you are not fasting. 

SUBJECT:     Ramadan Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

As we enter this special time of the year for Muslims, here are some FAQ’s regarding the month of Ramadan.

When Does Ramadan Begin?  When Does It End?

This year the month of Ramadan begins on or about August 1^st and ends on or about August 29^th.  Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, begins with the sighting of the new moon by religious authorities, and ends with the sighting of the next new moon.  The sighting of the new moon will be announced over radio, television, and in the newspapers.  

What is the Significance of Ramadan?

Fasting during the month of Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam, and commemorates the month in which the first verses of the Holy Qur'an were revealed to the Prophet Mohammed by the angel Gabriel.  The other four pillars are the testimony of faith, prayer, "Zakat" or charitable support of the poor, and making the "Hajj" or pilgrimage to Mecca.  Ramadan is a time of worship and contemplation, and when the concerns of temporal existence recede.

What is the point of Fasting?

The reason Muslims fast is to discipline their body and mind, and to regain control of earthly desires.  The absence of food and drink and other pleasures provides an opportunity to concentrate on prayer and worship.   Muslims use this month to start afresh and give their life a new direction.  During Ramadan, Muslims may not eat, drink, or smoke between dawn and sunset.  At sunset, the fast is broken with a meal (Iftar), which may be as simple as water, and dates, or something more sumptuous, depending on culture and tradition.  Visiting with family and friends may subsequently go on into the late evening or early morning hours.

What is Iftar?  What is Suhoor?

Special meals are eaten before and after each day of fasting: suhoor, before the dawn prayers, and iftar, the evening meal, often eaten communally and often including dates.  Iftar is the meal that breaks the fast and may include any type of food.  In Egypt, the Iftar dessert almost always includes the "konafa," a cake-like dessert made of wheat, sugar, honey, raisins and different types of nuts, or "qatayef," a small syrup-soaked crepe, folded to include nuts and raisins.  Suhoor consists of a lighter meal like cheese, yogurt, and "fuul" (Egyptian dish of beans).

Are Working Hours/Business Hours Affected by Ramadan?

Yes.  During Ramadan, government offices and private sector companies work a reduced schedule.  Most commercial shops and stores may open late and stay open longer in the evening, but may be closed during the breaking of the fast at sunset.

What Happens at the End of the Month of Ramadan?

The ending of the fast is celebrated for three days in a holiday called Eid-al-Fitr (the Feast of Fast-Breaking). Eid-al-Fitr falls on the first day of the Shawwal, the month which follows Ramadan in the Islamic calendar.  It is a time to give in a charity to those in need.  Parents give their children gifts (money and new clothes), and friends and family celebrate the completion of a month of blessing and joy.

What Else Do I Need To Know About Ramadan?

Because of the rigors of fasting, and because of the late hours many fasters keep during Ramadan, non-Muslims should be sensitive to the unique customs of our Muslim colleagues and friends.  Patience and common sense should be exercised.  Please consider the following during Ramadan:

o   Refrain from public displays of eating, drinking, or smoking during the fast.  This includes eating and drinking in the office, official vehicles, or in taxis.

o   If you host receptions or other events at your residence during the time of Iftar (around sunset) it is appropriate to hold an Iftar of fast-breaking.  Fruit juice, dates, and hot soup are a traditional start to an Iftar meal in Egypt.  This is followed by an ordinary meal.  If you invite an Egyptian to your home during the Iftar, the meal should be served immediately after sunset, and no alcohol should be served.

o   Be especially careful when driving, particularly during the hours preceding Iftar (traffic is heaviest from 3-6 pm), when many will be heading home to break the fast.  During the Iftar, when everyone is at home eating, the streets will be empty.  At the conclusion of Iftar, normal outdoor activity resumes and life on the street returns to its normal.

In order to access information about the approximate sunset time in Cairo during the month of August, please follow the links below, and note: only use the sunset times: 

http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/astronomy.html?n=53&month=8&year=2011&obj=sun&afl=-12&day=1

For Alexandria, sunset is approximately six minutes later than in Cairo.

“Ramadan Kareem”

Update from Cairo

THIS IS THE MISSING POST (which you will read about in the post right before this one).  Sorry - I thought I lost it but here it is after all.  And if you scroll ALL THE WAY DOWN to the beginning you'll see a great photo of the Kahn el Kalili, the wonderful tourist market I've written about.

I'm still not an expert with the pictures so I'm just going to upload them and try to explain as I go along.  The photo left is the local market - you can get glimpses of completely veiled women.

In the list of interesting things I've done in Cairo (my last post) I forgot to include hiking in the Wadi Degla.  The Wadi Degal is a huge expanse of desert right near our commissary.  You can drive in a certain distance but eventually you have to get out and walk.  Our trip was in early May so the weather was fantastic - beautifully clear and breezy.  We hiked for about an hour; I just loved it.  I've never realized before how beautiful desert can be.  You always think of sand and rocks, and in fact that's pretty much what we saw, but the contrast with the blue blue sky and the different colors of the landscape was stunning.  Of course I have no pictures....I only just recently realized my blackberry takes pictures  and I can send them to myself on hotmail.  I'm so technologically retarded it isn't funny.  Now I've started carrying my actual camera around with me too, so I'm trying to capture Cairo digitally.  I'll share as much as I can.

Yesterday we were authorized to grant one hour admin leave so everyone could leave the office at 3:30 p.m. instead of the normal time of 4:30 (for local Egyptian staff).  That was because Tahrir was filling up fast with demonstrators - there had been a call for a "million man march".  I think they got about 25,000, but that was enough to impede traffic in and out of the embassy which is only a couple of blocks away.  So, we were told if we didn't leave at 3:30 we might not be able to leave at all.  Since I forgot my toothbrush, I  decided to leave.  I got a glimpse of Tahrir on the way out - huge tents cover a large part of it, so I couldn't see much.  This is the hottest time of year so I would NOT want to be out there all day long like these demonstrators.  They get point for perseverence.  We are very well guarded at the embassy; at times, we don't even know anything is going on until someone tells us.  You can't hear anything or see Tahrir from our windows. 

FOUR MONTHS DOWN - THIRTY-TWO TO GO

Bead store at the Khan



Cairo Traffic

 Hello - its been a few weeks now; I certainly meant to keep this going at least weekly but the last time I posted, I somehow did not save when trying to post a photo, so I got the photo on, but lost the text of the very LONG post!  So, I was discouraged, but have not given up!

The picture I succeeded in posting is of the "Khan" (I spelled it wrong in an earlier post), the huge outdoor market where I have now been twice.  The second time a whole bunch of us went - two shuttle vans full of people from the Embassy.  We moved through the market mostly, but not always, together.  It was fun; I spent a lot of time in an amazing bead and jewelery store.  I don't think I've ever seen so many.  I will try hard to post the pictures I took in there but just a warning, I haven't been too successful with that.  The Khan is mostly a touristy souvenir-type place, but very picturesque.  This time we also went across the main road to the other side of the market, which is more for the local folks.  Its the kind of market where you see bras and underpants displayed on tables in front of the stores.  

I think I am going to have to wait until October, when the weather is cooler, to do any real sight-seeing (pyramids, sphynx, Citadel, etc.).  In October the Community Liaison Office (CLO) will be able to arrange some group trips, we hope.  If the security situation doesn't get worse, that is.  I just don't think it is wise right now for me to try to venture there on my own.  On very clear days I can see the faint outlines of two pyramids off on the horizon, which is a little thrill.  But pollution is so bad here, especially now  in the summer, that usually you can't see them through the haze of smog.   Today I went to a welcome brunch for my new boss at an 8th floor apartment with a fabulous view.  It was relatively clear and I could see 3 pyramids, including a step pyramids which I previously thought were only found in central and south America!

Last night I hosted my first "girl night" - we had pizza and wine, and zucchini bread that I made myself.  Then we watched a couple of movies.  Two of my guests fell asleep on the sofa.  I throw a very exciting girls night!  Actually it was pretty late by the time the 2nd movie was over and I was yawning away myself.  But they really liked my place and I hope to do it again soon.  Maybe we'll have a game night next time.  There is a game called Mexican something - can't remember the second word - that everyone seems crazy about.  I've never been crazy about board games but I'd try out a new one.

So the political sitch here is a little strange.  We had a HUGE demonstration about a week ago but it was mostly peaceful.  Now they have tents up in Tahrir Square and political parties with little tables giving out pamphlets, like in an American presidential or congressional campaign.  Although I understand the military has postponed the elections that were supposed to be in Setember.  Meanwhile Ramadan is coming up (month of August) which is not going to put people in a better mood...

The rules of Ramadan as far as I know, are:  no eating, drinking, smoking, kissing, sex, etc., during daylight hours.  People get grumpy, especially smokers (and it seems like EVERYONE here smokes).  The Egyptian employees at the Embassy get special hours off, even the Christian employees who are not fasting.  Muslims follow the fast during daylight and as soon as the sun touches the horizon, they are feasting.  They feast and party all night long, maybe catch an hour or two of sleep, and come to work.  Needless to say, productivity is way down during Ramadan.  The nice thing for American employees is that after about 2 pm the Egyptians go home and the whole embassy is quiet, calm, peaceful.  Its lovely!  The phone hardly rings.  No parade of complainers in and out of my office for several hours at least.  And....no traffic!

The stores are crowded with people stocking up on special Ramadan sweets and special foods.  There is a holiday atmosphere here - people are decorating their stores and trees with holiday lights, kind of like we do at Christmas.  It is going to be interesting to see how this works with the people who have vowed to remain in Tahrir Square through the whole month.

Back from the party.  It was fun - but I wanted to get home and work on the blog! 

By the way, the picture above was taken in  1959 in Cairo.  It's a shot taken when we visited my grandparents here that summer.  I'm the littlest one on the left.  I remember very little about that trip; the very few memories I have may not even be real memories; it might be that I "remember" just because I've been told the stories so often - of being carried up inside the pyramid, of a camel running away with my sister Connie on its back, of my grandmother standing on her balcony and flapping her apron.  I do remember that she would let a basket down on a rope, then a boy on the street would put milk or bread in the basket and she'd haul it up.  That was Cairo grocery shopping in 1959!

On to the present, or at least the very near past. 

Cancelled my flight on January 28 because of the revolution and subsequent "ordered departure" of American Embassy personnel.  That is State Dept lingo for EVACUATION.  Luckily for me, I found a FAST Arabic class being taught at the Foreign Service Institute, and was able to get into the class at the last minute.  FAST Arabic teaches very basic, survival Arabic - how to ask for directions, give directions, find a toilet, order in a restaurant, etc.  I loved the class - no pressure, because there was no testing.  Our only goal was to learn the very basic vocabulary.  We were focussed on conversation, not reading and writing.  I stayed in the class six and a half weeks before I got "the call" to go to  Cairo.  It was a fun six weeks, sometimes we laughed all day long.  My class really bonded together, and I was almost sorry to leave.

I arrived in Cairo on April 5.  Flight was uneventful.  On April 6 I reported for my first day at the Embassy.  That's right folks, no time off to get over jet lag, get comfortable in your housing, find your way around your neighborhood.  If I hadn't arrived in the evening of April 5, I probably would have been taken straight to the embassy to check-in the very same day that I arrived.  Not complaining though - it is easier for me to jump right in.  In fact, I was truly dreading the jet lag, but this time - I really had none!  I went right to bed and slept about 12 hours, got up, ate, and went to work.  Never felt tired or anything until the right time to go to bed.  Never lost any sleep at all.  We are 6 hours ahead of Eastern Standard time, and I usualy suffer horribly from jet leg when flying east. 

Before I get around to describing my house, my neighborhood, etc., here is a list of the interesting things I've done so far in Egypt:

- went on a dinner cruise down the Nile
- day trip to Ayn Sochna, a beach resort, where I saw dolphins swimming back and forth four times, about 50 yards out from the beach
- day trip to Alexandria by train for business; ate the freshest fish I've ever had in a wonderful restaurant called "The Fish Market" where you picked out your own fresh seafood.
- attended Good Friday services at a Greek Orthodox church built in 300AD where I think my father might have attended as a boy (still trying to find out)
- shopped in the maze of outdoor markets called "the Con" (trying to find out the origin of the name); had coffee in an outdoor cafe there, patronized by a pulitzer prize-winning Egyptian author
- been to the Ambassador's residence for a "hail and farewell" party
- attended a henna party last week - got a great design on my ankle but every time I look at it, I think there's a big bug on my ankle and I kind of jump a little
- Memorial Day weekend flew to Cyprus to attend a family wedding.  The flight was about an hour and a half.  Had a FABULOUS time.  Saw folks I hadn't seen since I was a teenager. 

Well, that's about it for now.  More later with pictures of my neighborhood, apartment, etc.  Take care all!
 

A New Start

Well, greetings from Cairo, land of the Pharoahs, the pyramids, Sphynx, my dad and brother.  According to the DNA search for migration patterns that Gabe did recently, our ancestors migrated from the Middle East.  Here I am, back in the land of my ancestors, writing a blog.  I hope you'll find it as interesting a region as I do.  

People have been bugging me FOREVER to start a blog, so I've finally done it.  I have a lot to say about the past and future - but mostly this blog is going to be about the present, the challenges and opportunities and adventures I'm experiencing in Cairo, Egypt.

I came to Cairo at a very interesting time.  I was assigned here last summer with the proviso that I would not leave my Washington DC colleagues in the lurch.  I negotiated a departure date of January 2011.  After pack-out, moving to temporary quarters, cleaning out my office, putting my house up for sale, saying good-bye to friends, relatives, and colleagues, etc. etc., the big day arrived:  my flight was at 9:15 p.m. on January 28, 2011.

I had kept my car until the very last day, because I already had an estimated buy-back price from Carmax which I was more than satisfied with.  My plan was to mail packages to myself that morning, then drive up to the Carmax in Laurel, turn the car in, and return by metro to my dear friend Suzanne's house in DC where I had been staying since my pack-out January 12.
The first part of the plan went well.  I packed three boxes of "stuff" (mostly winter clothes I knew I wouldn't need in Cairo right away, but definitely needed in DC in January) and dropped them off at the post office.  Then I returned to Suzanne's house to prepare to drive to Laurel and turn over my car.  I really had a few hours to kill - it was only 11:00 a.m. and the car was not picking me up for the airport run until 5:30 pm.  So.....I switched on the news to see if there was anything further about the demonstrations in Cairo. 

I hadn't been terribly worried, because I knew if it was too dangerous to go, the State Dept would not let me go.  They would have called me and told me to cancel, right?  You would think so.

As I watched a camel-riding thug ride through Tahrir Square in Cairo, followed by more thugs on horse-back wielding whips against a mostly peaceful crowd, I started to wonder if maybe I should call THEM, instead of waiting for THEM to call me.  The US Embassy in Cairo is only one street away from Tahrir Square.  So, I called my friend Carole, who is the assignments officer for the Middle East bureau.  Carole told me to wait because there was some big transcontinental telephone call happening and she would know more when the call ended.  No sooner did I hang up with Carole, then someone at the Embassy in Cairo called to tell me the same thing.  In the next hour, I received three more calls from the Embassy and from the State Department.  The verdict was:  stand down.  cancel.  don't go.  we are evacuating most embassy personnel.  don't come here.  stay in DC.  (you get the picture)

I was grateful I'd kept my car!

It seems this is to be a chronological blog, since I've started it with the events of January 2011.  I'll have to write more later to catch everyone up on what has happened since then.  But - right now, I have to get ready to go to the Independence Day celebration at our local club, the Maadi House.  Hamburgers and hot dogs, lots of red, white, and blue, you know the drill!  I love July 4th at overseas posts - it is really a wonderful feeling to celebrate America's independence when you are in a country that is trying so hard to emulate our democracy.  And almost all of them are.  At times, I forget to be grateful I was born an American.  Happy Independence Day everyone!















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