FOUR MONTHS DOWN - THIRTY-TWO TO GO

Bead store at the Khan



Cairo Traffic

 Hello - its been a few weeks now; I certainly meant to keep this going at least weekly but the last time I posted, I somehow did not save when trying to post a photo, so I got the photo on, but lost the text of the very LONG post!  So, I was discouraged, but have not given up!

The picture I succeeded in posting is of the "Khan" (I spelled it wrong in an earlier post), the huge outdoor market where I have now been twice.  The second time a whole bunch of us went - two shuttle vans full of people from the Embassy.  We moved through the market mostly, but not always, together.  It was fun; I spent a lot of time in an amazing bead and jewelery store.  I don't think I've ever seen so many.  I will try hard to post the pictures I took in there but just a warning, I haven't been too successful with that.  The Khan is mostly a touristy souvenir-type place, but very picturesque.  This time we also went across the main road to the other side of the market, which is more for the local folks.  Its the kind of market where you see bras and underpants displayed on tables in front of the stores.  

I think I am going to have to wait until October, when the weather is cooler, to do any real sight-seeing (pyramids, sphynx, Citadel, etc.).  In October the Community Liaison Office (CLO) will be able to arrange some group trips, we hope.  If the security situation doesn't get worse, that is.  I just don't think it is wise right now for me to try to venture there on my own.  On very clear days I can see the faint outlines of two pyramids off on the horizon, which is a little thrill.  But pollution is so bad here, especially now  in the summer, that usually you can't see them through the haze of smog.   Today I went to a welcome brunch for my new boss at an 8th floor apartment with a fabulous view.  It was relatively clear and I could see 3 pyramids, including a step pyramids which I previously thought were only found in central and south America!

Last night I hosted my first "girl night" - we had pizza and wine, and zucchini bread that I made myself.  Then we watched a couple of movies.  Two of my guests fell asleep on the sofa.  I throw a very exciting girls night!  Actually it was pretty late by the time the 2nd movie was over and I was yawning away myself.  But they really liked my place and I hope to do it again soon.  Maybe we'll have a game night next time.  There is a game called Mexican something - can't remember the second word - that everyone seems crazy about.  I've never been crazy about board games but I'd try out a new one.

So the political sitch here is a little strange.  We had a HUGE demonstration about a week ago but it was mostly peaceful.  Now they have tents up in Tahrir Square and political parties with little tables giving out pamphlets, like in an American presidential or congressional campaign.  Although I understand the military has postponed the elections that were supposed to be in Setember.  Meanwhile Ramadan is coming up (month of August) which is not going to put people in a better mood...

The rules of Ramadan as far as I know, are:  no eating, drinking, smoking, kissing, sex, etc., during daylight hours.  People get grumpy, especially smokers (and it seems like EVERYONE here smokes).  The Egyptian employees at the Embassy get special hours off, even the Christian employees who are not fasting.  Muslims follow the fast during daylight and as soon as the sun touches the horizon, they are feasting.  They feast and party all night long, maybe catch an hour or two of sleep, and come to work.  Needless to say, productivity is way down during Ramadan.  The nice thing for American employees is that after about 2 pm the Egyptians go home and the whole embassy is quiet, calm, peaceful.  Its lovely!  The phone hardly rings.  No parade of complainers in and out of my office for several hours at least.  And....no traffic!

The stores are crowded with people stocking up on special Ramadan sweets and special foods.  There is a holiday atmosphere here - people are decorating their stores and trees with holiday lights, kind of like we do at Christmas.  It is going to be interesting to see how this works with the people who have vowed to remain in Tahrir Square through the whole month.