MAADI WILDLIFE

Ramadan is almost over, and Eid is almost here.  There still is quite a bit of confusion over exactly when Eid will take place.  We'll go to work Sunday and Monday, as usual - then monitor our radios and cell phones to find out if Eid (pronounced EED) will be TUESDAY-WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY or WEDNESDAY-THURSDAY-FRIDAY.  Regardless, the Embassy will only observe two days of it because the State Department caps our holidays.  We can only have a max of 20 per year, and taking 3 days for Eid would put us over the limit.  There are ten American holidays and ten Egyptian holidays.

When I said "we'll" go to work Sunday and Monday, as usual, I was speaking figuratively.  I'll go to work Sunday, but Monday morning bright and early I am off to Athens, then Meteora in the mountains of Greece, where the monasteries perch on cliffs and the air is hopefully cool and clean.  I'll be back Monday September 5.  This is a combination of annual leave, holidays - both Muslim and American, with Labor Day - and weekends.  So, 7 days off and away from the noisiness and crowds and cars and heat and most of all - SMOG!  Need to breathe some clean air and contemplate my navel while doing so.  What better place than a monastery in the mountains?!

I quit going to Iftar two weeks ago - I felt like I would bust from all the food.  Seriously, I made myself sick from overeating so I just turned down all the rest of the invitations.  I don't know how they do it, really, they must have iron constitutions. 

MAADI WILDLIFE:

1.  FLIES (Musca domestica):  When we leave our homes in the morning, it is a rule here that our 6 designated flies are waiting for our arrival in the Great Outdoors.  Every human has at least 6 personal flies, sometimes more.  Its the law.  As I walk to my shuttle stop about 7 blocks away, the flies must buzz around my head, occasionally landing on my face or arm.  They pay no attention whatsoever to hand-flappings, waving, flicking, or any other motions.  There is a contest amongst them to see who can remain longest on the spot on my chin that is their favorite.  I think the winner last week stayed 3 seconds.

2.  CATS (Felis catus):  Cairo and Maadi, and I suppose all of the other suburbs, are full of stray cats.  It sometimes seems they are more numerous than the flies.  Some have some pretty unusual markings:  I saw an all white cat with a black tail, and an almost all-black cat with an almost all-white tail.  A few times on the way to the shuttle I've heard the distinctive sounds of Kitties in Distress.  I think one was up in a tree and couldn't get down.  I would love to take in a kitten, but I still remember what our cat in Kinshasa did to an embassy-owned upholstered chair.

3.  DOGS (Cannis familiaris):  Strays run wild, singly and in packs of 4 or 5, in Maadi and all over Cairo.  I'd be afraid except that they seem intent on one thing only:  finding food.  All one has to do is reach down and pick up one of the plentiful rocks in the street.  The dogs all seem to know what that reaching down motion and the subsequent raising of the arm with a rock in it motion mean.  They scatter.  I only do it if I'm actually feeling menaced, which has only been once.  They do not seem sick or in any way diseased - they are perky and active and run around just like any regular domesticated dog.  Also, like any regular domesticated but badly behaved dog, they bark all night long.  Thinking of getting those noise-cancelling headphones.    

4:  ASSES (Equs asinus):  Cairo vendors continue to use donkeys to pull their carts full of fruit or veggies or water or whatever.  For the most part, I think the donkeys are okay, they do not seem to be abused or unhealthy.  And they are so cute!  I just love to see them when I'm out - they are beautiful!  One guy parked his cart and donkey outside my window when they were delivering my household effects.  As each box was unpacked, the movers threw the box out the window, the donky cart guy caught it and put it in his cart.  I heard the donkey braying at one point - it was cool.  Donkeys are my new favorite animal.    

5.  ANTS (Hymenopetrous formicidae):  Big brownish-red ones keep appearing randomly in my house.  Not just in the kitchen - also in the bathroom, bedroom, living room, etc.  They are not normal ants, which form a line which you can usually follow to the point of egress.  These ants appear one at a time and don't seem to have an agenda.  There is nothing worse than ants without an agenda.

That's it for today's post.  Next week we'll explore Egyptian flora.  Until then, ma'asalaama!   

Patriotic Post - Go State!

This is from the Huff Post of 8/27/2011, written by Thomas Nides, Deputy Secretary of State.  A lot of people wonder what I actually do.  As a Human Resources Manager, I'm part of the support system for those who work at American embassies around the world - currently for those working at the American Embassy in Cairo:  

Former Secretary of Defense Robert Gates used to say that the Department of Defense has as many people in military bands as the State Department has in the Foreign Service. With just over one percent of the entire federal budget, we have a huge impact on how Americans live and how the rest of the world experiences and engages America.

Here are a few examples of what we do on behalf of the American people:

1. We create American jobs. We directly support 20 million U.S. jobs by advocating on behalf of U.S. firms to open new markets, protect intellectual property, navigate foreign regulations and compete for foreign government and private contracts. State economic officers negotiate Open Skies agreements, which open new routes for air travel from the United States to countries throughout the world, creating thousands of American jobs and billions in U.S. economic activity each year.

2. We support American citizens abroad. In the past eight months, we provided emergency assistance to, or helped coordinate travel to safe locations for, American citizens in Japan, Egypt, Libya, Tunisia, Bahrain, and Cote d'Ivoire in the wake of natural disasters or civil unrest. Last year, we assisted in 11,000 international adoptions and worked on over 1,100 new child abduction cases - resulting in the return of 485 American children.

3. We promote democracy and foster stability around the world. Stable democracies and prosperous communities are less likely to pose a threat to their neighbors or to the United States. South Sudan, the world's newest nation, can be a viable ally for the United States in east Africa, but right now, violence and instability threatens its success. U.S. diplomats and development experts are there to help the South Sudanese learn how to govern and develop their economy so that South Sudan can stand on its own. In Libya, we helped create unprecedented international support to help the people shed 42 years of dictatorship and begin the long path to democracy.

4. We help to ensure the world is a safer place. Our nonproliferation programs have destroyed dangerous stockpiles of missiles, munitions and the material that can be used to make a nuclear weapon. The New START Treaty, negotiated by the State Department and signed by President Obama in 2010, reduced the number of deployed nuclear weapons to levels not seen since the 1950s. And, in 2010, the State Department helped more than 40 countries clear millions of square meters of landmines.

5. We save lives. Our programs that fight disease and hunger reduce the risk of instability abroad and, in return, protect our national security. Strong bipartisan support for U.S. global health investments has led to unparalleled successes in the treatment, care and prevention of HIV/AIDS, tuberculosis and malaria, as well as saved millions from diseases like smallpox and polio.

6. We help countries feed themselves. In the United States, we know agriculture. Building upon what we do best - grow and produce food - we help other countries plant the right seeds in the right way and get crops to markets to feed the most people. Food shortages can lead to riots and starvation, but strong agricultural sectors can lead to stable economies, helping countries become strong U.S. trading partners.

7. We help in times of crisis. After this year's earthquake and tsunami in Japan, State and USAID sent disaster response experts, nuclear experts and urban search and rescue teams to work assist the government of Japan with meeting immediate needs. Secretary Clinton personally delivered much needed supplies to Chile within hours of a devastating earthquake. From earthquakes in Haiti to famine in the Horn of Africa and devastating fires in Israel, our experienced and talented emergency professionals deliver assistance to those who need it most.

8. We promote the rule of law and protect human dignity. Every day, we help people find freedom and shape their own destinies. In the Central Asian republics, we advocated for the release of prisoners held simply because their beliefs differed from those of the government. In Vietnam, we prevented political activists from suffering physical abuse. We have trained lawyers in the Democratic Republic of the Congo to help rape victims, police officers in Peru to combat sex trafficking, and journalists in Malaysia in an effort to make their government more accountable.

9. We help Americans see the world. In 2010, we issued 14 million passports for Americans to travel abroad. We facilitate the lawful travel of students, tourists and business people, including issuing more than 700,000 visas for foreign students to study in the U.S. last year. And, if a storm could disrupt your vacation plans or if you could get sick from drinking the water, we alert you through our travel warnings.

10. We are the face of America overseas. Our diplomats, development experts, and the programs they implement are the source of American leadership around the world. They are the embodiments of our American values abroad. They are a force for good in the world.

The United States is a leader for peace, progress and prosperity, and the State Department and USAID help deliver that. All of this (and more) costs the American taxpayer about one percent of the overall federal budget. That is a small investment that yields a large return by advancing our national security, promoting our economic interests, and reaffirming our country's exceptional role in the world.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE FOOD

I've been to three Iftars so far, and beginning to feel like all I do is eat, eat, eat.  I think I've gained ten pounds since August 1.  And you know - it is IMPOSSIBLE to say no, stop, that's enough, thank you very much.  They act like they don't hear you!

Last night I was invited to my colleague, Nagwa's home for Iftar.  Nagwa's apartment is in Zemalik.  Absolutely gorgeous place, full of antiques, gilt mirrors, gorgeous carpets.  I met Nagwa's daughter, Noura, who is getting married soon and furnishing her own apartment.  Nagwa took Noura to New York to find a wedding dress.  This is an obviously wealthy family - Noura told us all the places her grandmother has taken her over the years:  Malaysia, Japan, San Diego, Europe, etc. etc.  Grandma herself was at the Iftar.  The family owns three floors of the building, with Nagwa's brother and his family on the floor above her, and the other brother and his family on the floor below.  The huge balcony is on the Nile.  The only thing I can't figure out is - why on earth is Nagwa working at the Embassy?! 

The table was literally covered end to end with huge platters of lamb, turkey, roast beef, stuffed cabbage leaves, stuffed zuchini, pastichio (my favorite!), etc.  I couldn't finish the first plate Nagwa loaded up for me, yet she kept adding to it and ignored my protests.  Fortunately, the meal was mostly meat and veggies, not that many carbs.  Nagwa and her mother both have diabetes too, which may be why they only had two carbolicious foods on the table.  I ended up taking a box of food home, it felt like there were rocks in it.  

Well, it was loads of fun, really - but I have got to start turning some of these invitations down.  I'm going to another Iftar this week.   Aaaak!! 

I shot this picture on my ride home from work in the shuttle - it is not an uncommon sight, unfortunately.  But they look like they're enjoying the ride!  To enlarge any of these pictures, click on them a couple of times. 

NEW FACES

There is definitely a party atmosphere in Cairo these days, but not during the day.  The party starts at sunset and continues until the wee hours.  Last night I was invited to a dinner at a friend's house.  She lives in Zimalek, which is actually an island in the middle of the Nile.  It is directly across the river from downtown Cairo.  It normally would take about 45 minutes to get there in normal 7 p.m. traffic.  It took 15 minutes, door-to-door.  Everyone was inside breaking their fast!  The meal that breaks the fast (I guess you could call it breakfast) is called IFTAR in Arabic.  Next week I'm going to an IFTAR at an Egyptian colleague's home. 

I am very impressed with the Egyptians' fasting culture.  As we drove through almost empty streets last night, there were many, many folks outside offering juice and water to motorists on the road - my driver stopped and got two little bags of orange juice.  I also saw several places where people were sitting outside and eating.  These impromptu iftars are open to the public - anyone can go and have a full meal.  The houses and stores are decorated with Ramadan lamps (they look like big Chinese lamps), colored lights, flags and banners.  In the evenings, people outside are happy, strolling, friendly, holding hands.  There is such a difference between Egypt Ramadan and Saudi Arabia Ramadan.

We have some important new faces at the Embassy, including a new Ambassador (whom I have yet to meet), a new management officer,  and a new management counselor.  In the management section, I find I am now considered an "old-timer" in terms of time at post - after only 4 months!  Other newcomers are starting to pour in,  keeping me and my staff hopping.  HR is the first place they come when checking in.

At the end of August we will have two days off for Eid, the holiday that celebrates, uhh,  the end of Ramadan.  Since it comes right before the Labor Day holiday, I am thinking of going to Greece for a really long 7-day weekend/holiday/leave combination.

I've posted a new album on FACEBOOK which I'll try to link here.  Otherwise not posting pictures to the blog today - maybe next time.  (It took about 2 hours to get pictures from my camera AND my blackberry to the FB album.  Here's the link:

https://www.facebook.com/#!/media/set/?set=a.10150264432939682.339659.619419681&type=1

 

Ramadan oh Ramadan

Thought I'd cut and paste this management notice that was sent out to all mission staff today.  It is FAQs about Ramadan, and how to act in Egypt if you are not fasting. 

SUBJECT:     Ramadan Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

As we enter this special time of the year for Muslims, here are some FAQ’s regarding the month of Ramadan.

When Does Ramadan Begin?  When Does It End?

This year the month of Ramadan begins on or about August 1^st and ends on or about August 29^th.  Ramadan, the ninth month of the Islamic calendar, begins with the sighting of the new moon by religious authorities, and ends with the sighting of the next new moon.  The sighting of the new moon will be announced over radio, television, and in the newspapers.  

What is the Significance of Ramadan?

Fasting during the month of Ramadan is one of the five pillars of Islam, and commemorates the month in which the first verses of the Holy Qur'an were revealed to the Prophet Mohammed by the angel Gabriel.  The other four pillars are the testimony of faith, prayer, "Zakat" or charitable support of the poor, and making the "Hajj" or pilgrimage to Mecca.  Ramadan is a time of worship and contemplation, and when the concerns of temporal existence recede.

What is the point of Fasting?

The reason Muslims fast is to discipline their body and mind, and to regain control of earthly desires.  The absence of food and drink and other pleasures provides an opportunity to concentrate on prayer and worship.   Muslims use this month to start afresh and give their life a new direction.  During Ramadan, Muslims may not eat, drink, or smoke between dawn and sunset.  At sunset, the fast is broken with a meal (Iftar), which may be as simple as water, and dates, or something more sumptuous, depending on culture and tradition.  Visiting with family and friends may subsequently go on into the late evening or early morning hours.

What is Iftar?  What is Suhoor?

Special meals are eaten before and after each day of fasting: suhoor, before the dawn prayers, and iftar, the evening meal, often eaten communally and often including dates.  Iftar is the meal that breaks the fast and may include any type of food.  In Egypt, the Iftar dessert almost always includes the "konafa," a cake-like dessert made of wheat, sugar, honey, raisins and different types of nuts, or "qatayef," a small syrup-soaked crepe, folded to include nuts and raisins.  Suhoor consists of a lighter meal like cheese, yogurt, and "fuul" (Egyptian dish of beans).

Are Working Hours/Business Hours Affected by Ramadan?

Yes.  During Ramadan, government offices and private sector companies work a reduced schedule.  Most commercial shops and stores may open late and stay open longer in the evening, but may be closed during the breaking of the fast at sunset.

What Happens at the End of the Month of Ramadan?

The ending of the fast is celebrated for three days in a holiday called Eid-al-Fitr (the Feast of Fast-Breaking). Eid-al-Fitr falls on the first day of the Shawwal, the month which follows Ramadan in the Islamic calendar.  It is a time to give in a charity to those in need.  Parents give their children gifts (money and new clothes), and friends and family celebrate the completion of a month of blessing and joy.

What Else Do I Need To Know About Ramadan?

Because of the rigors of fasting, and because of the late hours many fasters keep during Ramadan, non-Muslims should be sensitive to the unique customs of our Muslim colleagues and friends.  Patience and common sense should be exercised.  Please consider the following during Ramadan:

o   Refrain from public displays of eating, drinking, or smoking during the fast.  This includes eating and drinking in the office, official vehicles, or in taxis.

o   If you host receptions or other events at your residence during the time of Iftar (around sunset) it is appropriate to hold an Iftar of fast-breaking.  Fruit juice, dates, and hot soup are a traditional start to an Iftar meal in Egypt.  This is followed by an ordinary meal.  If you invite an Egyptian to your home during the Iftar, the meal should be served immediately after sunset, and no alcohol should be served.

o   Be especially careful when driving, particularly during the hours preceding Iftar (traffic is heaviest from 3-6 pm), when many will be heading home to break the fast.  During the Iftar, when everyone is at home eating, the streets will be empty.  At the conclusion of Iftar, normal outdoor activity resumes and life on the street returns to its normal.

In order to access information about the approximate sunset time in Cairo during the month of August, please follow the links below, and note: only use the sunset times: 

http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/astronomy.html?n=53&month=8&year=2011&obj=sun&afl=-12&day=1

For Alexandria, sunset is approximately six minutes later than in Cairo.

“Ramadan Kareem”

Update from Cairo

THIS IS THE MISSING POST (which you will read about in the post right before this one).  Sorry - I thought I lost it but here it is after all.  And if you scroll ALL THE WAY DOWN to the beginning you'll see a great photo of the Kahn el Kalili, the wonderful tourist market I've written about.

I'm still not an expert with the pictures so I'm just going to upload them and try to explain as I go along.  The photo left is the local market - you can get glimpses of completely veiled women.

In the list of interesting things I've done in Cairo (my last post) I forgot to include hiking in the Wadi Degla.  The Wadi Degal is a huge expanse of desert right near our commissary.  You can drive in a certain distance but eventually you have to get out and walk.  Our trip was in early May so the weather was fantastic - beautifully clear and breezy.  We hiked for about an hour; I just loved it.  I've never realized before how beautiful desert can be.  You always think of sand and rocks, and in fact that's pretty much what we saw, but the contrast with the blue blue sky and the different colors of the landscape was stunning.  Of course I have no pictures....I only just recently realized my blackberry takes pictures  and I can send them to myself on hotmail.  I'm so technologically retarded it isn't funny.  Now I've started carrying my actual camera around with me too, so I'm trying to capture Cairo digitally.  I'll share as much as I can.

Yesterday we were authorized to grant one hour admin leave so everyone could leave the office at 3:30 p.m. instead of the normal time of 4:30 (for local Egyptian staff).  That was because Tahrir was filling up fast with demonstrators - there had been a call for a "million man march".  I think they got about 25,000, but that was enough to impede traffic in and out of the embassy which is only a couple of blocks away.  So, we were told if we didn't leave at 3:30 we might not be able to leave at all.  Since I forgot my toothbrush, I  decided to leave.  I got a glimpse of Tahrir on the way out - huge tents cover a large part of it, so I couldn't see much.  This is the hottest time of year so I would NOT want to be out there all day long like these demonstrators.  They get point for perseverence.  We are very well guarded at the embassy; at times, we don't even know anything is going on until someone tells us.  You can't hear anything or see Tahrir from our windows. 

FOUR MONTHS DOWN - THIRTY-TWO TO GO

Bead store at the Khan



Cairo Traffic

 Hello - its been a few weeks now; I certainly meant to keep this going at least weekly but the last time I posted, I somehow did not save when trying to post a photo, so I got the photo on, but lost the text of the very LONG post!  So, I was discouraged, but have not given up!

The picture I succeeded in posting is of the "Khan" (I spelled it wrong in an earlier post), the huge outdoor market where I have now been twice.  The second time a whole bunch of us went - two shuttle vans full of people from the Embassy.  We moved through the market mostly, but not always, together.  It was fun; I spent a lot of time in an amazing bead and jewelery store.  I don't think I've ever seen so many.  I will try hard to post the pictures I took in there but just a warning, I haven't been too successful with that.  The Khan is mostly a touristy souvenir-type place, but very picturesque.  This time we also went across the main road to the other side of the market, which is more for the local folks.  Its the kind of market where you see bras and underpants displayed on tables in front of the stores.  

I think I am going to have to wait until October, when the weather is cooler, to do any real sight-seeing (pyramids, sphynx, Citadel, etc.).  In October the Community Liaison Office (CLO) will be able to arrange some group trips, we hope.  If the security situation doesn't get worse, that is.  I just don't think it is wise right now for me to try to venture there on my own.  On very clear days I can see the faint outlines of two pyramids off on the horizon, which is a little thrill.  But pollution is so bad here, especially now  in the summer, that usually you can't see them through the haze of smog.   Today I went to a welcome brunch for my new boss at an 8th floor apartment with a fabulous view.  It was relatively clear and I could see 3 pyramids, including a step pyramids which I previously thought were only found in central and south America!

Last night I hosted my first "girl night" - we had pizza and wine, and zucchini bread that I made myself.  Then we watched a couple of movies.  Two of my guests fell asleep on the sofa.  I throw a very exciting girls night!  Actually it was pretty late by the time the 2nd movie was over and I was yawning away myself.  But they really liked my place and I hope to do it again soon.  Maybe we'll have a game night next time.  There is a game called Mexican something - can't remember the second word - that everyone seems crazy about.  I've never been crazy about board games but I'd try out a new one.

So the political sitch here is a little strange.  We had a HUGE demonstration about a week ago but it was mostly peaceful.  Now they have tents up in Tahrir Square and political parties with little tables giving out pamphlets, like in an American presidential or congressional campaign.  Although I understand the military has postponed the elections that were supposed to be in Setember.  Meanwhile Ramadan is coming up (month of August) which is not going to put people in a better mood...

The rules of Ramadan as far as I know, are:  no eating, drinking, smoking, kissing, sex, etc., during daylight hours.  People get grumpy, especially smokers (and it seems like EVERYONE here smokes).  The Egyptian employees at the Embassy get special hours off, even the Christian employees who are not fasting.  Muslims follow the fast during daylight and as soon as the sun touches the horizon, they are feasting.  They feast and party all night long, maybe catch an hour or two of sleep, and come to work.  Needless to say, productivity is way down during Ramadan.  The nice thing for American employees is that after about 2 pm the Egyptians go home and the whole embassy is quiet, calm, peaceful.  Its lovely!  The phone hardly rings.  No parade of complainers in and out of my office for several hours at least.  And....no traffic!

The stores are crowded with people stocking up on special Ramadan sweets and special foods.  There is a holiday atmosphere here - people are decorating their stores and trees with holiday lights, kind of like we do at Christmas.  It is going to be interesting to see how this works with the people who have vowed to remain in Tahrir Square through the whole month.